I always new that this night may damage the cellar but this was ridiculous . At times we raid the cellar with a view that a couple of wines are required if one is good then all is well, Other times we must mentally prepare ourselves as we comence this raid as it is the oldest and best that are sought, the chosen ones that we percieve to be in balance. The ones that still retain their character, identity and a texture that can balance out the still vocal fruit weight. Perfection can sometimes only occur if time allows, alot of time.
Now I am not suggesting that all are perfect, but that is the game we play with our cellar.
With good time I had just finished my second game of golf in 20 years and a few old freinds arrived at Chateau Baume, the temparature had started to climb and my own body had started to nudge closer to beer o'clock, you see I have a Beerometre at home!
So what better time to disclose to my guests that "I have a surprise!" with that I darted down to the cellar fridge and started something.... Well when you start events of with a 1997 classic clare Sparkling shiraz a ball like that one out of Indiana Jones gets rolling, the strucure imediatly struck us, a wine of balance both on the nose and palate. The Clare Valley has a distinct sweet fruit texture that develops with age as I have seen in ten year classics, but that in itself suggest that the wine is not in balance. At 14 years this wine had settled all those rough sweet fruit textures and the acidity had soothed its nerves there was a seemless pathway of flavour that presented itself as velvet or should i say dark forest fruit intermingled with a beutifully dry tannin influence that used the oak to tie the palate together. This wine, and I mean wine. You see I beleive that when a Sparkling moves beyond that of the 'middle' ground of the industry and becomes a benchmark it is a wine.This wine was stunning but not something I would have left for any longer, the acid influence was completly gone showing that by chance I had won this particular battle with my cellar, the classic was at the peak of its performance. But this was but one battle in the war and the night is young.
Cork seal
value- $100 - $200
5\5 case rating
cellaring from vintage- up to 20 years
'benchmark' catagory
Following the stunning opening act guest appeared with a 1993 Thomas Hardy Cabernet, to be honest I was a little nervous as I had seen a ten year Thomas that was clearly maturised, but was alway convinced that it had been badly stored. This particular wine had been impecibly stored and proved to be an identity of its own. the Thomas has always been known to be rich an full bodied as most of the fruit comes from Mclaren Vale and Coonawarra but after 18 years we had another velverty contender on our hands, a perfect follow on from the Classic. the wine became layered after carefull decantering and meant that we were bound to take our time, the palate remained dry yet firm although the acid influence had clearly gone the texture remained less plum and more elegant blackberry with a long offering that just sat on the finish for as long as one could allow, the tannin influence had settled into the background allowing the fruit to continue lifting and with about 30 minutes the Thomas was 'sublime'. But by that stage it was time for the next contender. How were we going to continue? Was this to be a night where the cellar was to give up all its secrets? Could we possibly continue winning the war?
value- $150-$250
cork seal
5\5 case rating
cellaring- up to 25 years
'benchmark' catagory
Cellar- 0
Baume- 2
At this stage the BBQ was warming and it was time to visit the cellar , but it was with some determination that I would draw out of its grasp a '1988 John Riddoch Cabernet'. In my opinion the Riddoch is one of the best Cabernets in the country and I have tasted the wealth of experience that can come from the 82, 84 and 88 Riddoch. But it was not to be, thin and lifeless and lacking aromatics of any kind, it appeared as though the cellar had won. Or did somebody break in to the cellar and Steal the wine? i will never know, all I knew was that my favorite wine in the world had died the worst fate imaginable.Normally I would rate the riddoch 5\5 cases, but I must rate the individual wine on its merits.
value- $140-$220
0\5 case rating
cellaring- up to 20 years [definatly not 23 years!]
'dead' catagory', corked would be a separate catagory
Cellar-1
Baume-2
How were we to continue? what could possibly be chosen next ?after all the night was still young..........
